ZECO TRAVEL TALK

March with the Penguins

We’ve just returned from what can only be described as a pilgrimage to see “chicks on feet,” the minute, most picturesque, avian youngster of all – the Emperor Penguin. Yes, it was cold. Yes, it was hard. It was also Antarctica in its purest and most elemental form. Temperatures and sea ice this year were the coldest and most extensive since records began in the early 1970s. Even for our 23,000 hp Russian icebreaker, the Kapitan Kblevnikov, getting so far south so early was a huge challenge. The ice eventually stopped us some 40 miles from the colony. During the next two days our helos flew over 2,800 miles to take everyone to the colony and back safely. Considering the distances involved it was the most ambitious and audacious expedition made in recent times to see a bird that is justly named, the “Impossible Penguin.” We spent two days at the penguin colony witnessing one of the greatest spectacles on Earth – Emperor Penguins, “Lords of the Antarctic,” in their icy and ethereal domain. We witnessed firsthand the “March of the Penguins,” the steady stream of adult Emperors making their way from the sea edge to the colony to feed their youngsters, many of whom were still on the feet of adults and provided incredible photo opportunities. Even for those of us who have been to “the deep South” before this will long be remembered as one of the most challenging, yet rewarding, of all Antarctic voyages.

We’ve come back from our Romania trip with so many memorable images and moments to sift through… Despite the country’s ongoing battle with government corruption, it is such a beautiful place and I thoroughly enjoyed seeing the medieval cities, such as Sibiu, Cluj, Sighisoara, and Brasov. The fortified churches and monasteries are out of this world, and the painted monasteries of Bukovina are still something I can’t get over. But beyond the major sights it was the villages, the landscapes, the fir-clad mountainsides, the horse-drawn carts, the horses decorated for a wedding, the “from another era” funeral ceremonies, the dancers… Those were the real highlights.

One of the best times was our visit with an older couple who single-handedly have collected an incredible assortment of objects: archaeological pieces from an dig the man participated in, wooden carvings, old vests, agricultural objects, paintings, and everything having to do with making butter. But his main legacy is–andwill be–that he has been teaching the children of the village the traditional dances and music. Read more

Algiers, Mediterranean Mosaic - Voyage II

Our time in Algiers was, simply, fantastic and the weather couldn’t have been better. We started at the Martyr’s Monument, then visited the small, wonderful Museum of Antiquties and Islamic Art. The highlight of course was the Casbah and we visited a traditional home there, hosted by very gracious Bahia, whose family—for four generations—was born and raised there. Everyone was delighted with this personal glimpse into Casbah life.

From the rooftop deck we had a stunning view and enjoyed delicious mint tea as we listened to the 4 o’clock prayer ripple down the streets of the Casbah. We then walked from the top of the Casbah to the bottom… what an amazing experience, arriving at the bottom among a sea of people rushing home to break the Ramadan fast. Once back onboard we were entertained by a famous local band and everyone really got into it. Then we had a BBQ in our Panoramique Restaurant as we sailed away from Algiers. It was an incredible day.

Annaba, Mediterranean Mosaic - Voyage II

Today, our first day in Algeria, was overwhelming, in the best possible way. We had two fantastic guides, and the tour was great. We had perfect weather, had the amazing ruins site of Hippo Regius completely to ourselves, and enjoyed meeting the Bishop of the Basilica of St. Augustine before coming back to the ship for lunch.

After lunch we headed into town (Annaba) for a visit to the Mosque where the Imam himself showed us around; it was a very special experience. We then went to Revolution Square for a walk through the old heart of the city. This evening we had a Q and A session with the guides and it was fantastic! The passengers had lots of questions and the guides answered them in a very straightforward and candid way — everyone enjoyed and appreciated it very much.