ZECO TRAVEL TALK

After our relaxing day at sea, we were ready to hit the Vanuatu island of Ambrym running! The two incredible volcanoes were what first drew Captain Cook to its shores and our warm welcome was probably much the same. Our visit to the village started off with the traditional pig slaughter and a gift exchange ceremony with Little John, the Captain, and the local leader. We were then treated to the amazing Rom Dance—the performers, covered from the neck down in volumes of dried banana leaves, wear huge elaborate masks and stomp in rhythm to chanting and drum-beating. It’s such a hypnotic experience, and the opportunities for photography were fantastic.

We were able to really experience the local flavor of island life when we walked down the little dirt path “Main Street,” and visited the local school and looked inside local houses. We also tasted the traditional baked coconut “bread.” In the afternoon, the birders set out to look for the elusive megapode—which they didn’t find, but did get to see several nests. Many of us went snorkeling or diving in the 83-degree water and the color of the coral against the black sand was other-wordly!

We had a phenomenal last day in the Canaries… Lanzarote ended up being the favorite island for many of us, including the birders! It felt so laid back, clean, gorgeous and quiet. When we reached Agadir, Morocco, we set off inland to the wonderful village of Taroudaunt which is often nicknamed “Little Marrakech.” The sights, sounds, and smells of the local market were so inviting—and worthy of a thousand photographs: yellow saffron, red curry, brown cinnamon and green mint… the heaping piles of dates that look like mountain peaks; the baskets and bushels of fresh fruits and vegetables; bouquets of flowers; the array of exotic jewelry; and, of course, the gaudy, sequined, and leopard print tops and skirts! Tomorrow, Casablanca!

As we drove along the mountain roads to the Roman ruins site of Djémila, the views of the countryside, gorges, and farmlands were simply breathtaking. Along the way we were treated to mint tea and homemade cookies. When we arrived at Djémila—a World Heritage Site with some of the best preserved Roman ruins in North Africa—we ended up having a very special, and serendipitous, experience. A group of college girls from Bejaia—some in veils, some without… some with hoop earrings and jeans, others in traditional dress—heard us speaking English and approached us. We managed to exchange bits of conversation—in broken English, French, and Arabic—laughing all the while, taking photographs of each other, and all of us completely enjoying this lovely chance interaction. Everyone in our groups commented on how really amazing it is to visit a place where tourism has hardly touched the local people. What a wonderful memory for all of us…

So far our Petra to the Pyramids journey through Jordan and now Egypt has been one highlight after another. In Aqaba, we boarded our private sailing ship, The Aladdin, for the hour and a half sailing to Egypt. We had beautiful weather and sailed south through the gulf with Israel and Egypt visible on our starboard side and the coasts of Jordan and Saudi Arabia off the port side — four countries in an hour and a half! We disembarked in Taba at a tiny dock and quickly proceeded through customs as the officials checked us into Egypt. From Taba it was an impressive drive through the Sinai Peninsula desert to our hotel conveniently located just a half mile from the 6th century Byzantine Monastery of St. Catherine, at the base of Mount Sinai. We arrived as the sun was setting and made our way to the restaurant for a cocktail party with a very special guest. One of the monks, Father Justin, had been corresponding with our accompanying lecturer, Hector Williams of the Archaeological Institute of America, by email for the past few months. When Hector learned that we would be staying overnight near the Monastery he invited Father Justin to “come down from the hill” and join us for dinner. Not only did he join us, but Father Justin also gave a very interesting talk about his work to preserve ALL of the manuscripts in the extensive library at St. Catherine. He even invited us to stop by the library for a private tour the next day! Read more

So far, Terceira is a highlight on our Azores trip! The island has the perfect combination of “island feel” with its colorful pink, red, blue, and bright yellow buildings, and “Euro feel” because of the quaint, cobblestone pedestrian streets and outdoor cafes with umbrellas and wicker chairs—charming! We were able to come alongside which gave everyone the freedom to come and go as they pleased from the ship. We all enjoyed the walking tour and our guides very thoughtfully brought along local maps for everyone. Half the group explored the cultural sights and the rest of us went hiking to an overlook. We then drove to one of the island’s natural wonders—a cave, which is actually a hollow volcano with 227 steps down to its floor.

On a scenic drive it became clear that there were more cows than people on the island; the guides joked that the ratio was two to one! This evening 33 folk performers came on board—a record number—and the lounge was packed. Everyone loved it, and the Captain’s welcome cocktail and dinner was the perfect follow-up act, and a delightful end to a wonderful day.

Our visit to Burma and Laos was a great success. Pleasant memories of the trip remain fresh and vivid – the luxury and surprise of Afternoon Tea at the Strand Hotel; the joyful spirit of the people at the Shwedagon; the peacefulness, relaxation, and enthusiastic service of the Pandaw voyage; sunset and horse cart ride amidst the stupas of Pagan; and the incredible and unique Inle Lake. For many of us, Burma was especially delightful – thanks to our super guide Daniel. To others, the cruise down the Mekong in Laos was most memorable: hours and hours of lovely, uninterrupted greenery and forest – not to mention the wonderful teakwood bungalows at Luangsay Lodge. A highlight for me was the very moving ceremony of the Baci, graced upon us so gently and kindly by the warm village folks around Pakbeng.

Excerpts from the Welcome Home Letter written by Expedition Leader Gary Wintz for our March 2008 Burma & Laos program.

With the safe return of Le Ponant’s crew confirmed, we received a note from the ship owners that we’d like to share with you.

Dear Scott and all our friends at Zegrahm,

Thank you so much for your email. It is indeed a great relief to get our crew members back home. They are back in Paris tonight.

The ship is also in a good state, and we should start our cruises back to normal, in the coming weeks. Once again, thank-you very much for your continuous support during the past week.
It was sincerely very much appreciated by all of us at CIP and we are looking to share such a warm support with our crew members in the coming days.

Very kind regards on behalf of all your friends at CIP.

Eric LUSTMAN
COMPAGNIE DES ILES DU PONANT

Zegrahm Expeditions and its family of travelers is so very pleased to learn of the news that Le Ponant’s crew is free and safe. Thanks go to our many travelers who contacted us, shared their feelings, prayed for this result. Le Ponant, under the command of Captain Patrick Marchesseau, is now headed to Djibouti for arrival April 15. We hope for a speedy recovery for the crew members as they are reunited with their families and friends.