ZECO TRAVEL TALK

A little more than a year ago, in our July 2007 Newsletter, Scott Fitzsimmons introduced Zegrahm travelers to a remarkable 14-year-old classical pianist from Odessa, Dasha Bukhartseva. Some of our Black Sea voyagers had the delight of being entertained by Dasha, and other performers, at a concert at the Gagarin Palace.

Those who met and heard her were astonished at her talent and dedication at such a young age. And a few of our passengers were so moved they felt compelled to take this young lady under their wings and carry her from a very humble existence to a doorway that would open into a world she never could have dreamed of. Her journey to the U. S. in 2007, to the prestigious Aspen Music Festival and School, and next—with highest hopes—to Juilliard, is nothing short of amazing. And all due to a few people, our wonderful passengers, who saw a diamond in the rough and realized they could help make it sparkle.

To quote from Scott’s letter last year:

“The remarkable discovery [of Dasha] and eventual U.S. journey seems fit for a motion picture, with a cast that would include Zegrahm travelers Dan and Lynne Levinson of Colorado and Mieke and Hendrik Smit of Hilton Head, along with expedition leader Lia Oprea and our terrific tour partner in Ukraine, Janna Belousova…

With Dasha on the brink of entering Juilliard, and with support for this endeavor coming from sources all over the country, including many Zegrahm travelers, we felt it was time to give you an update on her progress: Read more

A much-revered Galapagos Islands resident, the giant tortoise “Lonesome George” was thought to be the last of his kind. That this conservation icon might soon produce offspring has created as much buzz in the naturalist world as Brad and Angelina’s offspring have in Hollywood. The importance of the impending event reaches back to Charles Darwin who was the first to notice distinctions among tortoises from different islands in the Galápagos, further advancing his theory of evolution.

Found in 1972 on Pinta island, George is estimated to be in his 70s—middle age for a giant tortoise. The Galapagos National Park recently announced that a female tortoise, keeping company with George since 1993, has laid three intact eggs presently being cared for in an artificial incubator. The female belongs to the closest existing phenotype to that of George. It will take about four months to know precisely whether the eggs bear George’s offspring. Considered by many to be the world’s rarest creature, George has given us new hope!

We awoke to another stellar sunrise, warm breezes, and the standard early morning wake-up call. After a delicious breakfast and much appreciated coffee, we prepared for our landing on Tower Island. We immediately found ourselves in a swirl of wildlife – frigate birds and red footed boobies greeted us, filling the sky overhead. The number of birds was almost overwhelming. Sea lions were lounging on the beach and lifted their heads briefly in greeting as we passed. Exploring the island on foot, we ended up at a gorgeous lagoon with only knee-deep water, allowing us to walk through it. Flanked by a high rock wall on one side and a forested beach on the other, we were joined by a huge male sea lion, barking loudly as he swam circles around us. The birders were pleased to capture some outstanding pictures of baby boobies and the day ended on a high note as we spotted the elusive short eared owl. We had seen a pair of mating Galapagos hawks earlier on the voyage but I think this perhaps trumped that show. The snorkelers have also been thrilled, swimming with sea lions and turtles, and spotting the Galapagos shark, octopus, and scorpion fish. As one of our guides said on our first day “Welcome to the biological Disneyland!”

Bolivia is a country like no other. Our exploration of this highest, poorest, and least known South American nation proved to be that perfect blend of travel and adventure: some of our pre-conceptions enhanced, and others shattered.

Never ones to enjoy “down time” in an exotic locale, on our first day in La Paz we transformed our “morning at leisure” into a dawn excursion along the famous crossing to Coroico, known as “The Most Dangerous Road on Earth.” Climbing out of the high city bowl of La Paz, we were met by a rare scene on El Cumbre pass: llama herds wandering through a snowy wonderland against a dramatic backdrop of rugged peaks. Later, we explored the colorful streets of the city’s Witches’ Market, where traditional remedies of dried armadillos and llama fetuses adorned the exteriors of traders’ stores.

After a scenic journey to the remote village of Uyuni, on the salt flats of the same name, we witnessed the surface of the world’s highest, largest, and surely most spectacular expanse of salt. The dazzling whiteness, brilliant blue sky, and multi-hued volcano was the setting for lunch, with rosy-pink Andean flamingos foraging along the lake shore. Our journey deep into the heart of Potosi’s mountain of silver, Cerro Rico, gave us fascinating and sobering insights into the Colonial history of South America. And the Sunday market in Tarabuco, with its potato-tossing vegetable sellers and piles of magnificent woven fabrics, is surely one of South America’s most traditional and colorful markets. Read more

We had a wonderful trip to the Galápagos… I am still dreaming of the many places we saw. Spending time with Jack (Grove) and Pauli in this rarified environment was such a treat, and being with Greg Estes, our veteran naturalist guide, in his own territory really added to the experience. The most amazing aspect of being on these islands is that there is a total absence of fear. There are no weapons and no predators. We went ashore one morning on the pristine island of Genovesa, and basically just slowly moved around at the mouth of a tidal basin that ended in mangroves, where we observed the birds—mostly red-foot boobies, their fledglings, some Galápagos doves, and a lava heron or two. It was probably one of the most peaceful moments of the trip. I was reminded of that when we got back to the mainland and I spotted a bird I wanted to observe more closely. As I moved closer, of course it flew away. I had forgotten I was no longer in paradise, where you can walk between and around nesting albatross and lovemaking frigatebirds and nobody seems to notice you are big and somewhat out of place. M. & H. Smit

With the recent return of our first Galápagos trip of the year, we thought we’d post an advance notice of a momentous occasion: February 12, 2009 will mark the 200th anniversary of Charles Darwin’s birth and has been designated “Darwin Day – An International Celebration of Science and Humanity.” Events will include symposia, seminars, stage productions, and exhibits held at universities, museums, and theaters around the world. UNESCO will also be associated with the celebrations that honor the man credited with the first measured study of biological evolution through the process of natural selection. The anniversary also marks 150 years since the publication of Origin of the Species and 50 years since the establishment of the Galápagos National Park. The Charles Darwin Foundation commemorates its 50th anniversary in 2009 with the launch of a new Darwin Galápagos Education Center. Zegrahm’s Galápagos voyages visit the Foundation on Santa Cruz Island. For more information, and for regular event updates, visit the website: www.darwinday.org.

The year was 1981 and my parents had just bought me a pair of binoculars for my thirteenth birthday, a significant improvement on the minimal magnification, mother-of-pearl-coated opera glasses that had piqued my early interest in all things feathered. The birding bug had bitten hard, my youthful interest had exploded into an obsession, and my personal “life list” of just over 200 local bird species had become a source of great pride to me. One afternoon, while browsing through the natural history section of my municipal library, I happened upon a book written by a birding businessman estimating that a dedicated birder, in a lifetime of travel, could reasonably hope to see a maximum of 5,000 bird species (approximately half of all birds on Earth). Times changed, jet travel improved, new field guides and bird-finding site guides were written and, in the early 1990’s, this 5,000 limit was handily passed by a new generation of world birders.

Having never dreamed that such lofty goals were possible, I found myself passing this magical milestone in 2002, a combination of two decades spent birding in my home continent of Africa and two years working and traveling in the “Bird Continent” of South America. My work with Eco-Expeditions, apart from providing rich birding opportunities on the expeditions themselves, facilitated personal exploration of bird-rich areas in Asia and Australasia, and my global bird tally crept over 6,000 in 2004, approaching the magical figure of 7,000 in mid-2007.

Still a full 50 species short, I pondered where to start hunting. Zegrahm’s “March with the Penguins” expedition made up my mind for me: it would be South America, home to over a third of all bird species on Earth. Read more

Costa Rica: We had a great day in the Tortuguero Canals of Costa Rica! We saw dozens of sloths, lots of green iguanas, a few basilisks (Jesus Christ lizards) and, of course, more and more birds! The holy grail of the day—and Peter Harrison says maybe even for the trip—was the great potoo, usually a noctural predator!

Panama: Rain caused us to change our plans somewhat and we did a Zodiac cruise in Escudo de Veraguas which was a big hit. Though a bit wet, people loved it! The birders had a clean sweep finding all the endemic species, and the zodiac cruise found the real prize of the day—the endemic pygmy sloth. Everyone returned with a smile. We decided to heave anchor and head straight for Bocas del Toro. Read more