ZECO TRAVEL TALK

Besides it being volcanic, I didn’t really know what to expect from our visit to Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. I have seen volcanic islands in other parts of the world, and each seemed to have its own, surprising beauty.

The first impression of Lanzarote’s landscape was breathtaking. As we headed into the interior of the island, it was one of those perfect days that seem to only happen in maritime locations. A layer of small, fast moving clouds raced along with the prevailing northerlies. Alternating sunlight and shadow moved up and down the volcanoes and across the open spaces between them. The soil was mostly black, but there were organic patterns of rust and yellow and brown and little bits of grass scattered throughout.

As we drove to the Timanfaya National Park, an extensive range of volcanoes and volcanic scenery, our guide spoke of the influence of César Manrique, an artist and native of Lanzarote who briefly moved to New York City to pursue the arts. When he returned to the island in 1966, just as it was beginning to develop its tourism industry, Manrique was shocked to find the vulgar development taking place. He immediately set about pressuring the local government and marshalling his influential friends to enforce strict building controls on the island. These controls continue to exist today and keep Lanzarote picturesque and true to its heritage:

. All buildings are painted white, with green shutters in the countryside (for farmers) and blue by the sea (for the fishermen)
. No high rises (nothing taller than a Canarian palm)
. No billboards
. The size and scale of residential developments are also strictly limited

The result is a consistency throughout the island that isn’t often seen in a world where profit and rapid development take priority. Manrique also created a set of unique tourist attractions on the island, some of which are in Timanfaya National Park. He designed the national park’s devil logo and had a hand in laying out the roads through the park, with many twists and turns so as to minimize the visibly of other visitors. He also designed El Diablo, a UFO-inspired restaurant that sits in the middle of the park, perched on the volcanic rim.

There are also several interactive exhibits that demonstrate how hot the earth is just below your feet. A shovelful of gravel was almost too hot to handle… there was a pit about 6 feet deep that was hot enough to ignite vegetation that was tossed in, and a glass of water that was poured into a hole caused a 20-foot geyser to erupt about ten seconds later.

Another remarkable feature of the island is the unusual farming techniques that were developed to deal with the oppressive wind—and the fact that any usable soil lies about 3 feet below the surface. Farmers here have been highly successful in growing wine grapes in an unusual—and highly scenic—manner that helps the tender young vines survive the wind and storms.

I just returned home after leading two fantastic Circumnavigation of the Black Sea voyages aboard Le Levant. The Black Sea explorations are ever-changing and each year it seems there are new opportunities. On these recent voyages, for the first time, we were able to visit the famous Odessa Opera House.

Our tour agent in the Ukraine, Janna Belousova, and Zegrahm staff member, Olga Stone, worked together to obtain special permission from the director for an insiders tour of this incredible venue which has been closed and under renovation for the past seven years.

After our private Operetta Performance in a salon at Gagarin’s Palace, we strolled up the boulevard to the Opera House. Viewed from outside, the Viennese Baroque edifice is ornate and a work of art in itself, topped with a sculpture depicting Melpomene (The Muse of Tragedy) in her chariot pulled by four snarling panthers. Inside, the splendor of striking white stucco, gilded sculptures and ornaments, and sherbet-tinted hues of the marble pillars of the great hall and central staircase immediately transported us back to the grandeur of centuries past. This entrance resembled what one guest proclaimed “an amazing wedding cake!”

In the theater itself the bold décor commanded a certain speechless reverence. Over a half ton of brilliant gold leaf relief detailed the friezes, moldings, and columns, complementing and highlighting the opulent “Russian Red” of the velvet covered seats and private boxes.

On our late September voyage, as we listened to performers warm up for the night’s surprise performance of Verdi’s La Traviata backstage, a few of our guests, staff, and crew chose to forego dinner aboard and instead purchased tickets for the performance that evening. They returned to Le Levant with stories of a night of music and beauty that was to be the personal highlight of their voyage!

Odessa is a beautiful city noted for its music, art, and incredible history, yet the Ukraine is just one of the many countries we visit on our cultural explorations in the Black Sea, the Adriatic, or the Baltic (to name just a few of our destinations). On each journey we seek to introduce the music, cuisine, history, art, and the incredible natural landscapes to our intrepid travelers. From year to year each voyage evolves to offer new options, inviting new discussion and enabling us to seize a front row seat in the dynamic “theater” of history in action. I hope you’ll join us for further discoveries and once in a lifetime opportunities.

As we cruised out of Istanbul and through the Bosporus, we stood on deck photographing the dozens of minarets that pierce the blue sky and the different angles of Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque, and Aya Sofia. Hundreds of fishermen lined every bridge and beach.

The next day we visited the quaint and picturesque fishing village of Amasra. It was a wonderful day for walking and we explored the Genoese Fort and the Archaeological Museum. Our athletic hikers climbed to the highest point for great views of the Black Sea and the colorful village below. It was clear and warm enough for swimming—two adventurous swimmers actually said the water was warmer than the air!

We continued along the northern Turkish coast to Amasya where the highlights included the Archaeological Museum with its fascinating mummy exhibits and the Ethnographic Museum, which features traditional Turkish houses. Once again our avid hikers made it to the top, and while they were enjoying the magnificent views of the River Valley, our birders and naturalists were searching for the holy grail of the day, the lammergeier! Three people spotted it! We had a delicious traditional lunch high atop the mountain overlooking the river and city. The mezze platter—with red ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, feta cheese, baba ganoush, and roasted red peppers—was just delicious! Our main course of shish kebabs and couscous was accompanied by some of the best fresh bread many of us claimed we had ever had. Next, we sail to Trabzon and the Byzantine Sumela Monastery…

A little more than a year ago, in our July 2007 Newsletter, Scott Fitzsimmons introduced Zegrahm travelers to a remarkable 14-year-old classical pianist from Odessa, Dasha Bukhartseva. Some of our Black Sea voyagers had the delight of being entertained by Dasha, and other performers, at a concert at the Gagarin Palace.

Those who met and heard her were astonished at her talent and dedication at such a young age. And a few of our passengers were so moved they felt compelled to take this young lady under their wings and carry her from a very humble existence to a doorway that would open into a world she never could have dreamed of. Her journey to the U. S. in 2007, to the prestigious Aspen Music Festival and School, and next—with highest hopes—to Juilliard, is nothing short of amazing. And all due to a few people, our wonderful passengers, who saw a diamond in the rough and realized they could help make it sparkle.

To quote from Scott’s letter last year:

“The remarkable discovery [of Dasha] and eventual U.S. journey seems fit for a motion picture, with a cast that would include Zegrahm travelers Dan and Lynne Levinson of Colorado and Mieke and Hendrik Smit of Hilton Head, along with expedition leader Lia Oprea and our terrific tour partner in Ukraine, Janna Belousova…

With Dasha on the brink of entering Juilliard, and with support for this endeavor coming from sources all over the country, including many Zegrahm travelers, we felt it was time to give you an update on her progress: Read more

After cruising the Kiel Canal and officially entering the Baltic Sea, we were excited to begin our adventures in some of Europe’s most historic cities and towns. Ronne, on Denmark’s Bornholm Island, was so quaint and we walked past colorful houses capped with clay tile roofs and gorgeous blooming gardens before sitting down to an amazing lunch—a banquet of local dishes with fresh vegetables from local gardens, and a Danish apple crumble dessert that practically had us moaning!

We spent the next day in fascinating Gdansk, Poland and our morning tour gave us a somber lesson in the history of Solidarity, well-presented by local guides. We then strolled the pedestrian-only streets of Old Town, enjoyed delicious coffee and some fun shopping, and visited magnificent St. Mary’s, the largest brick church in the world. Our next country is Lithuania!

Gorgeous weather and Turkey’s amazing sites continued to wow us. We headed to Cyprus on a short flight; our hotel here is surrounded on three sides by the Mediterranean—just lovely! In Nicosia, we explored the narrow streets of the old town and its 400-year-old Venetian walls, then made our way up and into the foothills of the Five Finger Mountains to the Bellapais Monastery… I’m not sure what was more impressive, the Gothic construction or the incredible views of the harbor town of Girne below. The ancient Kyrenia Castle in Girne has been transformed into a series of museums and we really enjoyed our time at the Underwater Archaeology Museum which was impressive, especially the partially reconstructed shipwrecked sailing ship.

I can honestly say that our lunch at what appeared to be a roadside stop was one of the best meals I’ve ever had. We sat outdoors on a patio under a thatched covering, looking out over a small marina and the sea. The food was out of this world—there were no fewer than six mezes (small plates), including one with yogurt made at the restaurant earlier in the morning. And I seriously think we need a moment of silence for the olives! I have no idea what they do to them but they were like eating little bits of gold. Then, if that wasn’t enough, a local fish arrived at our places—whole, head and all—grilled to perfection. Thankfully our guide Yasar was there to help filet mine or I think I’d still be trying to work every last little piece off the bones!

Heading east over the mountains we visited the old trading center of Famagusta and its beautiful Cathedral of St. Nicholas, now a museum. And the Monastery of St. Barnabas was just superb with its iconic Christian art, probably the best we’ve seen. Our last site visit here was the ruins of Salamis with a 5,000-seat amphitheater that was used for artistic performances, rather than gladiator games. We also found some of the most beautiful mosaics of the trip. We are now on our way back to Antalya to board our gulets for five days of sailing along the Turquoise Coast…

Our time in Turkey is flying… In Ankara, The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations was fantastic; the exhibits are so well done and transport you through the different time periods and cultures. We had a wonderful lunch at an old Ottoman home within the ancient Citadel in the heart of the city, then had a rare chance to visit rooms not usually open to the public in the Mausoleum of Ataturk, thanks to our great guide, Yasar.

In addition to the amazing sights, the trip has been a gastronomic extravaganza! The produce is incredible… I have never heard so many different interpretations of “yummy,” and over an orange! Our favorites have been the grilled vegetables with wonderful sauces, and the always abundant olives in so many varieties…

Our drive to Cappadocia was fascinating. On the way we stopped at the Valley of the Monks and the Zelve monastic settlement, where three valleys of rock-carved cave homes and churches converge, some decorated with primitive paintings. In the evening we watched a performance of the Whirling Dervishes which was just fantastic—mesmerizing, really. Read more

We had a phenomenal last day in the Canaries… Lanzarote ended up being the favorite island for many of us, including the birders! It felt so laid back, clean, gorgeous and quiet. When we reached Agadir, Morocco, we set off inland to the wonderful village of Taroudaunt which is often nicknamed “Little Marrakech.” The sights, sounds, and smells of the local market were so inviting—and worthy of a thousand photographs: yellow saffron, red curry, brown cinnamon and green mint… the heaping piles of dates that look like mountain peaks; the baskets and bushels of fresh fruits and vegetables; bouquets of flowers; the array of exotic jewelry; and, of course, the gaudy, sequined, and leopard print tops and skirts! Tomorrow, Casablanca!