ZECO TRAVEL TALK

This morning during a spectacular sunrise—made even more dramatic by the rare presence of clouds—we headed toward what appeared to be a mesa rising from the middle of the ocean. This apparition was, in fact, Montgomery Reef which is only visible during low tide. The roughly 80-mile long reef is submerged twice a day—by extreme tides. We cruised to a suitable drop-off point, passing rafting-worthy waterfalls and turbulent rivers of sea water still pouring off the reef.

Once ashore, and mindful of the myriad potentially toxic animals around us, we diligently followed our staff biologists and naturalists from one amazing living creature to the next. Almost immediately we were investigating small octopus, rays, living corals, giant bailer snails, and even a spectacularly bold mantis shrimp. Feeling more confident, we walked over crunching dead corals and through nearly seven inches of remaining water. Engrossed in our own explorations, or joining smaller groups, we all had one ear tuned to the occasional yelp of discovery and, as quickly as our water shoes could squelch, we made our way over to be sure we didn’t miss anything. We spent several hours in total tidal pool bliss before heading back to the ship for cookies and stories of who saw how many of what.

Bolivia is a country like no other. Our exploration of this highest, poorest, and least known South American nation proved to be that perfect blend of travel and adventure: some of our pre-conceptions enhanced, and others shattered.

Never ones to enjoy “down time” in an exotic locale, on our first day in La Paz we transformed our “morning at leisure” into a dawn excursion along the famous crossing to Coroico, known as “The Most Dangerous Road on Earth.” Climbing out of the high city bowl of La Paz, we were met by a rare scene on El Cumbre pass: llama herds wandering through a snowy wonderland against a dramatic backdrop of rugged peaks. Later, we explored the colorful streets of the city’s Witches’ Market, where traditional remedies of dried armadillos and llama fetuses adorned the exteriors of traders’ stores.

After a scenic journey to the remote village of Uyuni, on the salt flats of the same name, we witnessed the surface of the world’s highest, largest, and surely most spectacular expanse of salt. The dazzling whiteness, brilliant blue sky, and multi-hued volcano was the setting for lunch, with rosy-pink Andean flamingos foraging along the lake shore. Our journey deep into the heart of Potosi’s mountain of silver, Cerro Rico, gave us fascinating and sobering insights into the Colonial history of South America. And the Sunday market in Tarabuco, with its potato-tossing vegetable sellers and piles of magnificent woven fabrics, is surely one of South America’s most traditional and colorful markets. Read more

We were all excited by the sunshine and dazzling surroundings here in the remote Kimberley as we headed to Bathhurst Island in the “Xplorer,” the excursion vessel that can take everyone from our ship to shore together… Local Aboriginal Tiwi guides met us and we began a great day exploring and learning about this fascinating culture. We visited a workshop, Ngaruwanajirri, where traditional artwork is created by disabled Tiwis. In a Quonset-style building massive panels painted with Tiwi designs tiled the entire ceiling, while the artisans’ tools and works in progress were spread out neatly along the floor. Most of us purchased a variety of the beautiful artwork, including hand-painted textiles and hand-carved masks. Our next stop was a typical Tiwi church, elaborately decorated with a blend of hand-carved western Christian icons and traditionally painted Tiwi animal designs.

At the Museum for History of the Island and People, our guide detailed the various components of Tiwi history through artifacts, sacred burial totems, vintage photography, and traditional jewelry. We were also treated to homemade tea and bread, Tiwi basket weaving, and Tiwi face-painting. At a Tiwi dance and ironwood cleansing ceremony, painted Tiwi men and women brought smoked branches to each member of our group for blessings of good luck and health, followed by dances evocative of indigenous animals. For birders, a pair of sulphur-crested cockatoos patrolled the surrounding trees long enough to take photos of them. Waving goodbye from the Xplorer to our new Tiwi friends and guides, we headed back to the ship for Peter Zika’s first lecture: “Sex and the Single Flower.” It was a magical day.

Spirits are high and smiles are big after an absolutely tremendous day in Palau! Everyone seems to love this magical place and the gorgeous weather showed it all off beautifully. Thomas and Natalia, back on their old home turf, were just great with arranging spontaneous multiple tours—diving, snorkeling, kayaking, and birding. The multi-colored blue waters have so much to offer here… And these reefs are some of the best in the world. We were able to see a healthy population of large fish such as Napolean wrasse, anemone fish, snapper, tuna, jacks, and a number of sharks, such as black tip, white tip and the gray reef shark. Another contingent cruised through the Rock Islands—rounded mounds covered with lush green vegetation which I like to call the “chia pet” islands! This is a really lovely and unique place, and cruising the channels between them is a peaceful, other-worldly experience.

Gorgeous weather and Turkey’s amazing sites continued to wow us. We headed to Cyprus on a short flight; our hotel here is surrounded on three sides by the Mediterranean—just lovely! In Nicosia, we explored the narrow streets of the old town and its 400-year-old Venetian walls, then made our way up and into the foothills of the Five Finger Mountains to the Bellapais Monastery… I’m not sure what was more impressive, the Gothic construction or the incredible views of the harbor town of Girne below. The ancient Kyrenia Castle in Girne has been transformed into a series of museums and we really enjoyed our time at the Underwater Archaeology Museum which was impressive, especially the partially reconstructed shipwrecked sailing ship.

I can honestly say that our lunch at what appeared to be a roadside stop was one of the best meals I’ve ever had. We sat outdoors on a patio under a thatched covering, looking out over a small marina and the sea. The food was out of this world—there were no fewer than six mezes (small plates), including one with yogurt made at the restaurant earlier in the morning. And I seriously think we need a moment of silence for the olives! I have no idea what they do to them but they were like eating little bits of gold. Then, if that wasn’t enough, a local fish arrived at our places—whole, head and all—grilled to perfection. Thankfully our guide Yasar was there to help filet mine or I think I’d still be trying to work every last little piece off the bones!

Heading east over the mountains we visited the old trading center of Famagusta and its beautiful Cathedral of St. Nicholas, now a museum. And the Monastery of St. Barnabas was just superb with its iconic Christian art, probably the best we’ve seen. Our last site visit here was the ruins of Salamis with a 5,000-seat amphitheater that was used for artistic performances, rather than gladiator games. We also found some of the most beautiful mosaics of the trip. We are now on our way back to Antalya to board our gulets for five days of sailing along the Turquoise Coast…

Our day on Rabaul (Papua New Guinea) was an incredible mix of culture and natural phenomena. Once ashore, we set out to visit the World War II Museum, the fascinating Japanese barge tunnels (the island was a Japanese stronghold during the War), and the Tavurvur Volcano hot springs. The volcano had been rumbling and spewing ash plumes for the past few days and while we were visiting, we not only had the chance to observe this, but it started raining and the ash came down mixed with the rain! In other words, whites were no longer white, our skin was no longer tan, and our hair was black! But we all had a blast, literally!

After dinner on board the ship, we returned to Rabaul for a performance of the famed Fire Dance performed by Baining tribes-men. We sat by a mesmerizing campfire and the dancers appeared wearing huge masks and grass skirts and performed barefoot in, around, and through the fire to the constant beating of drums… it was so exciting and electrifying.

The next afternoon we had the best snorkel of the trip so far—off of Tingwon Island. There was a gorgeous and very healthy reef wall with an incredible variety of fish and coral. The visibility and conditions couldn’t have been better and everyone came back beaming! We celebrated back on board with a delicious rum punch…ah paradise!

Our time in Turkey is flying… In Ankara, The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations was fantastic; the exhibits are so well done and transport you through the different time periods and cultures. We had a wonderful lunch at an old Ottoman home within the ancient Citadel in the heart of the city, then had a rare chance to visit rooms not usually open to the public in the Mausoleum of Ataturk, thanks to our great guide, Yasar.

In addition to the amazing sights, the trip has been a gastronomic extravaganza! The produce is incredible… I have never heard so many different interpretations of “yummy,” and over an orange! Our favorites have been the grilled vegetables with wonderful sauces, and the always abundant olives in so many varieties…

Our drive to Cappadocia was fascinating. On the way we stopped at the Valley of the Monks and the Zelve monastic settlement, where three valleys of rock-carved cave homes and churches converge, some decorated with primitive paintings. In the evening we watched a performance of the Whirling Dervishes which was just fantastic—mesmerizing, really. Read more

We had a wonderful trip to the Galápagos… I am still dreaming of the many places we saw. Spending time with Jack (Grove) and Pauli in this rarified environment was such a treat, and being with Greg Estes, our veteran naturalist guide, in his own territory really added to the experience. The most amazing aspect of being on these islands is that there is a total absence of fear. There are no weapons and no predators. We went ashore one morning on the pristine island of Genovesa, and basically just slowly moved around at the mouth of a tidal basin that ended in mangroves, where we observed the birds—mostly red-foot boobies, their fledglings, some Galápagos doves, and a lava heron or two. It was probably one of the most peaceful moments of the trip. I was reminded of that when we got back to the mainland and I spotted a bird I wanted to observe more closely. As I moved closer, of course it flew away. I had forgotten I was no longer in paradise, where you can walk between and around nesting albatross and lovemaking frigatebirds and nobody seems to notice you are big and somewhat out of place. M. & H. Smit