ZECO TRAVEL TALK

A much-revered Galapagos Islands resident, the giant tortoise “Lonesome George” was thought to be the last of his kind. That this conservation icon might soon produce offspring has created as much buzz in the naturalist world as Brad and Angelina’s offspring have in Hollywood. The importance of the impending event reaches back to Charles Darwin who was the first to notice distinctions among tortoises from different islands in the Galápagos, further advancing his theory of evolution.

Found in 1972 on Pinta island, George is estimated to be in his 70s—middle age for a giant tortoise. The Galapagos National Park recently announced that a female tortoise, keeping company with George since 1993, has laid three intact eggs presently being cared for in an artificial incubator. The female belongs to the closest existing phenotype to that of George. It will take about four months to know precisely whether the eggs bear George’s offspring. Considered by many to be the world’s rarest creature, George has given us new hope!

We awoke to another stellar sunrise, warm breezes, and the standard early morning wake-up call. After a delicious breakfast and much appreciated coffee, we prepared for our landing on Tower Island. We immediately found ourselves in a swirl of wildlife – frigate birds and red footed boobies greeted us, filling the sky overhead. The number of birds was almost overwhelming. Sea lions were lounging on the beach and lifted their heads briefly in greeting as we passed. Exploring the island on foot, we ended up at a gorgeous lagoon with only knee-deep water, allowing us to walk through it. Flanked by a high rock wall on one side and a forested beach on the other, we were joined by a huge male sea lion, barking loudly as he swam circles around us. The birders were pleased to capture some outstanding pictures of baby boobies and the day ended on a high note as we spotted the elusive short eared owl. We had seen a pair of mating Galapagos hawks earlier on the voyage but I think this perhaps trumped that show. The snorkelers have also been thrilled, swimming with sea lions and turtles, and spotting the Galapagos shark, octopus, and scorpion fish. As one of our guides said on our first day “Welcome to the biological Disneyland!”

Sunshine and blue skies added to our fantastic morning at Ossora Town on the coast of Karaginskiy Island off the Kamchatka Peninsula. On shore, all the Koryak people were waiting for us… We watched a fish gutting demonstration and three passengers tried their hand at gutting their own fish. Afterwards, we were treated to wonderful traditional dancing and a reindeer lassoing demonstration.

Another sunny day made our landing in Glybokaya Bay nothing short of spectacular. Even before breakfast, as we cruised into the fjord, we saw several bears up on the snowfields. Ashore, we had more excellent sightings and good photo ops; even those who stayed on the ship were treated to some great bear watching. Our Zodiac tour later in the day yielded yet more bear viewing—and quite close up—and we didn’t know where to look first. Our tally, for this one day alone, was 25 bears—give or take a couple!

At Peters Bay we went ashore for beautiful nature walks—towering volcanoes under a blue sky and no mosquitoes made the day extra great. In the afternoon, at Bogaslov Island, we jumped into Zodiacs, zipped right up almost to shore and watched and photographed more than 100 walrus! This trip has been such an incredible wildlife extravaganza…

We’re into the Russia part of our Japan to Kamchatka adventure—or so says the map. If it wasn’t for the Russian writing on the side of a building, you’d think we were in Antarctica! Northern fur seals and Steller’s sea lions by the thousands covered the beaches of Tyuleniy Island off the coast of Sakhalin—the island’s name means “seal.” On Shimushir, while we were exploring an old Soviet base, a beautiful little Siberian rubythroat put in an appearance and we all had the chance for a good close-up look. The weather was wonderful, clear and calm, and in the afternoon many of us walked to the top of Yankicha Island for incredible views across the sinking volcanic caldera. A bonus photo op (though blackmail also comes to mind!) was the impromptu hot spring dug out by our expedition crew who could be spotted huddled in the little pool in their undies—“researching the hot-bath bird list, ” they later explained. Hmmmm.

We stayed at anchor in the evening and saw the most amazing site. All three species of auklets came in to nest overnight on the island. It was like a huge haze of birds, so many it looked like a swarm of locusts and not like birds at all. Truly awesome. The next day was chilly and foggy, but our Zodiac explorations of Srednego Islands rewarded us with hundreds of seals and sea lions surrounding us in the water. And, as we sailed to Matua Island, we had the most incredible encounter with more than 30 orca—the photos should be fantastic!

This morning during a spectacular sunrise—made even more dramatic by the rare presence of clouds—we headed toward what appeared to be a mesa rising from the middle of the ocean. This apparition was, in fact, Montgomery Reef which is only visible during low tide. The roughly 80-mile long reef is submerged twice a day—by extreme tides. We cruised to a suitable drop-off point, passing rafting-worthy waterfalls and turbulent rivers of sea water still pouring off the reef.

Once ashore, and mindful of the myriad potentially toxic animals around us, we diligently followed our staff biologists and naturalists from one amazing living creature to the next. Almost immediately we were investigating small octopus, rays, living corals, giant bailer snails, and even a spectacularly bold mantis shrimp. Feeling more confident, we walked over crunching dead corals and through nearly seven inches of remaining water. Engrossed in our own explorations, or joining smaller groups, we all had one ear tuned to the occasional yelp of discovery and, as quickly as our water shoes could squelch, we made our way over to be sure we didn’t miss anything. We spent several hours in total tidal pool bliss before heading back to the ship for cookies and stories of who saw how many of what.

Bolivia is a country like no other. Our exploration of this highest, poorest, and least known South American nation proved to be that perfect blend of travel and adventure: some of our pre-conceptions enhanced, and others shattered.

Never ones to enjoy “down time” in an exotic locale, on our first day in La Paz we transformed our “morning at leisure” into a dawn excursion along the famous crossing to Coroico, known as “The Most Dangerous Road on Earth.” Climbing out of the high city bowl of La Paz, we were met by a rare scene on El Cumbre pass: llama herds wandering through a snowy wonderland against a dramatic backdrop of rugged peaks. Later, we explored the colorful streets of the city’s Witches’ Market, where traditional remedies of dried armadillos and llama fetuses adorned the exteriors of traders’ stores.

After a scenic journey to the remote village of Uyuni, on the salt flats of the same name, we witnessed the surface of the world’s highest, largest, and surely most spectacular expanse of salt. The dazzling whiteness, brilliant blue sky, and multi-hued volcano was the setting for lunch, with rosy-pink Andean flamingos foraging along the lake shore. Our journey deep into the heart of Potosi’s mountain of silver, Cerro Rico, gave us fascinating and sobering insights into the Colonial history of South America. And the Sunday market in Tarabuco, with its potato-tossing vegetable sellers and piles of magnificent woven fabrics, is surely one of South America’s most traditional and colorful markets. Read more

Zegrahm Cofounder and world-renowned expert on sea birds, Peter Harrison will be the featured speaker at the 60th anniversary and annual meeting of the New York State Ornithological Association in Rochester, New York. The event is held in September, the time of annual bird migrations along the shores of Lake Ontario. Rochester is close to a number of Global Important Bird Areas—sites identified as high priority for conservation action. Peter is the author of the highly acclaimed Sea Birds: An Identification Guide; his speech—Seven Years and Seven Continents—will highlight his adventures to some of the most remote places on the planet.

In the program notes, he is given this introduction: “Peter has spent years traveling all the oceans of the world doing fundamental research and leading tours. An entertaining and incisive speaker, he delivers a serious message, with wit and passion, about the need to conserve habitats for all birds.” Those of us who have worked and/or traveled with Peter have often witnessed this dedicated passion. For more information, go to: www.nybirds.org

We were all excited by the sunshine and dazzling surroundings here in the remote Kimberley as we headed to Bathhurst Island in the “Xplorer,” the excursion vessel that can take everyone from our ship to shore together… Local Aboriginal Tiwi guides met us and we began a great day exploring and learning about this fascinating culture. We visited a workshop, Ngaruwanajirri, where traditional artwork is created by disabled Tiwis. In a Quonset-style building massive panels painted with Tiwi designs tiled the entire ceiling, while the artisans’ tools and works in progress were spread out neatly along the floor. Most of us purchased a variety of the beautiful artwork, including hand-painted textiles and hand-carved masks. Our next stop was a typical Tiwi church, elaborately decorated with a blend of hand-carved western Christian icons and traditionally painted Tiwi animal designs.

At the Museum for History of the Island and People, our guide detailed the various components of Tiwi history through artifacts, sacred burial totems, vintage photography, and traditional jewelry. We were also treated to homemade tea and bread, Tiwi basket weaving, and Tiwi face-painting. At a Tiwi dance and ironwood cleansing ceremony, painted Tiwi men and women brought smoked branches to each member of our group for blessings of good luck and health, followed by dances evocative of indigenous animals. For birders, a pair of sulphur-crested cockatoos patrolled the surrounding trees long enough to take photos of them. Waving goodbye from the Xplorer to our new Tiwi friends and guides, we headed back to the ship for Peter Zika’s first lecture: “Sex and the Single Flower.” It was a magical day.